I've been inspired by tales of spangles and shinies from the other side of the island to take my Saxony gown project back off the shelf and get started on it. Now, nearly three years after my first attempt, I have a much better idea of how to research projects. I also have more of an interest in costuming and recreating clothing than I did when I first started playing SCA. I still like the idea of wearing pretty dresses though, so this gown is going to be super pretty and shiny. I've just begun to grasp the concept of just how many bits and pieces I'm going to need to make, and just how much time and attention I'm going to need to devote to each bit. I'm hoping to break the project up into small parts so I don't get daunted by how much work I need to do :)
First of all, I've been looking at lots and lots of pictures. I have spent hours trawling the Cranach Digital Archive. It took me a while to figure out how it works, but now I have a folder full of close-up pictures of parts of the paintings. I'm expecting that there'll be a lot more by the end of this. I've also been trawling through blog posts and dress diaries from people who have made their own Saxony gowns. I've been hoping to pick up some tips as well as figure out what doesn't work.
While looking at all these things, I decided that I didn't want to make an exact replica of Portrait of a Girl with Forget-me-nots. I started building a picture in my head of things that I like. It's still a work in progress, but I have some broad ideas.
1. I want my gown to have a high collar
I've decided I just really like the look of the high collar. All my cotehardies have a wide, low neckline and the problem of how to make the wide neckline on a Saxony gown has been troubling me ever since I decided I wanted to make one. I think I've moved past my phase of MUST SHOW CLEAVAGE because I also like the idea of having my back and shoulders covered for warms, and wearing a high necked chemise underneath. You can clearly see a chemise in a lot of the pictures when you zoom in.
It's white, and you can just see the ruffles poking out the top of the choker around her neck. After some wandering around the internet, I found a tutorial for a high necked chemise with smocking that looks awesome and very appropriate. I won't embroider the smocking which will be covered by the jewellery.
2. Decoration
I want lots and lots of pearls and also some gold couching. I really like beading on the portrait of Princess Magdalena of Brandenburg above. I like that it goes along the edge of the opening of the bodice and up around the collar. I also really like the geometric design. It seems that there's sort of a choice with this style of gown. You either have flowery designs or geometric ones. I think I'll stick to the geometric designs. I also really like the idea of decorating the INSIDE of the collar.
This painting is not on the Cranach Digital Archive, but Google seems to think it belongs to one of the Cranachs. Anyway, the point is LOOKIT THE INSIDE! I really like that it is lined in a different colour to the rest of the gown, and has matching goldwork/beading on the inside and the outside. I'm not sure about having lumpy decoration bits on the inside, so I haven't decided whether to match my outside decorations, do something different for the inside, or just line it in the same silk brocade that I use for the gold bands around the skirt. Also I like her sleeves. I haven't much thought about sleeves, but I think I might want something like what this Judith has. There's a few different Judiths, but I think I like this one the best.
3. Caul / Goldhaube
I want to make a caul like the one on the right
Both of these are the same design, with two bands instead of one. I just think the one on the right is prettier, but making one might depend on finding the right fabric. So far all I've found online are tutorials for making cauls with the one band in the front. I might have to do my own experimenting. I don't have any experience at all with cauls, so this part of the project could take a while.
Also on the subject of headwear, I have decided I don't want a pizza hat after all. I'm not sure what I do want, but it needs to be something small and fluffeh.
4. Underthings
So obviously I've decided on wearing a high necked chemise. I've been pondering the idea of making some sort of supportive kirtle like Ysemay Sterlyng did (I met her at Pennsic and saw her gown, it looks awesome), but I think I might go with just the chemise. I think I'll use a false white linen front that is stitched to the waistband of the skirt and pins to the back of the brustfleck so that I can get the smooth tummy look. If I interline the bodice properly, and put some cord or boning or something in front of the lacing rings, then I should be able to fit the bodice so that my boobies are supported and I get the nice curved look of the paintings.
Today I've been trawling the CDA for pictures of women with their skirts lifted. I have a very good reason!
They're not just plan chemises underneath, they wear pretty skirts with colours and bands. Also shoes. My favourite underskirt picture is this one:
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Mostly because that wide white band looks a lot like fur. If you zoom in on the CDA picture you can see it better. I also like the bands on the outer gown. I haven't really decided anything about the skirt yet. I'm thinking I need a skirt that goes between my chemise and the outer gown, and there will be bands of silk brocade on the outer gown skirt. This morning I ordered a swatch of this and this. I might order more swatches, or I might decide to use more of the ones I've ordered, we shall see in a few weeks when they arrive :P. I also have no idea how to construct the skirt. There's a lot of information online about roll pleating, but not much actual evidence that it was done in the period. I'll have to look into it further. All I really know it that gathering doesn't work. It needs to be pleats of some sort.
On Friday Lady Elizabeth is holding a bodice making workshop for the college girls at her house. I'm going to go along and see what wisdom I can pick up about how to make bodices, and have a go at patterning a bodice for this project.
First of all, I've been looking at lots and lots of pictures. I have spent hours trawling the Cranach Digital Archive. It took me a while to figure out how it works, but now I have a folder full of close-up pictures of parts of the paintings. I'm expecting that there'll be a lot more by the end of this. I've also been trawling through blog posts and dress diaries from people who have made their own Saxony gowns. I've been hoping to pick up some tips as well as figure out what doesn't work.
While looking at all these things, I decided that I didn't want to make an exact replica of Portrait of a Girl with Forget-me-nots. I started building a picture in my head of things that I like. It's still a work in progress, but I have some broad ideas.
1. I want my gown to have a high collar
 |
| Lucas Cranach the Elder: Judith with the head of Holofernes (1530), Portrait of Princess Maria of Saxony (1534), Princess Magdalena of Brandenburg (1530-40) |
I've decided I just really like the look of the high collar. All my cotehardies have a wide, low neckline and the problem of how to make the wide neckline on a Saxony gown has been troubling me ever since I decided I wanted to make one. I think I've moved past my phase of MUST SHOW CLEAVAGE because I also like the idea of having my back and shoulders covered for warms, and wearing a high necked chemise underneath. You can clearly see a chemise in a lot of the pictures when you zoom in.
 | ||
| Portrait of Princess Maria of Saxony: Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1534 |
It's white, and you can just see the ruffles poking out the top of the choker around her neck. After some wandering around the internet, I found a tutorial for a high necked chemise with smocking that looks awesome and very appropriate. I won't embroider the smocking which will be covered by the jewellery.
2. Decoration
I want lots and lots of pearls and also some gold couching. I really like beading on the portrait of Princess Magdalena of Brandenburg above. I like that it goes along the edge of the opening of the bodice and up around the collar. I also really like the geometric design. It seems that there's sort of a choice with this style of gown. You either have flowery designs or geometric ones. I think I'll stick to the geometric designs. I also really like the idea of decorating the INSIDE of the collar.
 |
| Judith with the Head of Holofernes |
3. Caul / Goldhaube
I want to make a caul like the one on the right
 |
| Salome with the head of St John the Baptist at Herodes table (1537) |
Also on the subject of headwear, I have decided I don't want a pizza hat after all. I'm not sure what I do want, but it needs to be something small and fluffeh.
4. Underthings
So obviously I've decided on wearing a high necked chemise. I've been pondering the idea of making some sort of supportive kirtle like Ysemay Sterlyng did (I met her at Pennsic and saw her gown, it looks awesome), but I think I might go with just the chemise. I think I'll use a false white linen front that is stitched to the waistband of the skirt and pins to the back of the brustfleck so that I can get the smooth tummy look. If I interline the bodice properly, and put some cord or boning or something in front of the lacing rings, then I should be able to fit the bodice so that my boobies are supported and I get the nice curved look of the paintings.
Today I've been trawling the CDA for pictures of women with their skirts lifted. I have a very good reason!
They're not just plan chemises underneath, they wear pretty skirts with colours and bands. Also shoes. My favourite underskirt picture is this one:
Mostly because that wide white band looks a lot like fur. If you zoom in on the CDA picture you can see it better. I also like the bands on the outer gown. I haven't really decided anything about the skirt yet. I'm thinking I need a skirt that goes between my chemise and the outer gown, and there will be bands of silk brocade on the outer gown skirt. This morning I ordered a swatch of this and this. I might order more swatches, or I might decide to use more of the ones I've ordered, we shall see in a few weeks when they arrive :P. I also have no idea how to construct the skirt. There's a lot of information online about roll pleating, but not much actual evidence that it was done in the period. I'll have to look into it further. All I really know it that gathering doesn't work. It needs to be pleats of some sort.
On Friday Lady Elizabeth is holding a bodice making workshop for the college girls at her house. I'm going to go along and see what wisdom I can pick up about how to make bodices, and have a go at patterning a bodice for this project.
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